PRODUCTION DETAILS           MATERIALS & USAGE   Precision Labels The following types of label materials are used as appropriate, the majority are self-adhesive vinyls: Most packs now use opaque white plastic film with a glossy finish and pearlescent effect to make pale lining colours litterally shine Waterproof thick plastic matte finish film is used for our "WL" packs We have in the past also used semi-gloss finish card labels which again gives a scale thickness on rigid items such as headboards & roof boards Metallic silver or gold labels for headboards, nameplates and chrome lettered roof boards on for example "The Silver Jubilee" A completely clear and removeable plastic film is used to increase the thickness of O-gauge headboards, and also window modelling as with modern headcode frames Very thin paper labels are used for a flush fitting with externally applied modern headcodes A non-adhesive translucent white backlit plastic film is used for modern illuminated headcodes - designed specifically for internal light-boxes, as for example on the latest Heljan models. Magnetic labels, attaching without glue to steel frames No special backing or mounting is required - each label is ready to attach to most surfaces. Although designed to be permanently affixed, the self-adhesive glues used won't normally damage a model if the labels are later removed. However, removing a label will probably cause it to curl or fray, so re-use is not recommended. We also do not recommend applying labels over loose transfer decorations or to models with weak varnish coats, as these may lift off if you later decide to remove a label.                       Photograph by Mick Sloman. We use HP inkjets with true 2400dpi and the Epson DuraBrite waterproof ink technology. Some of our packs are fully weather proof with waterproof media and adhesives - these have "WL" reference codes. However, for most items, care must be taken not to wet or splash the labels, as that can ruin the images! You can always seal over labels with a solvent based varnish - for example a gloss or satin finish from Howes RailMatch range. Don't use acrylic varnishes or other water-based treatments with our labels. We do not use the ordinary photographic paper-based materials that are commonly available - we have found them difficult to cut cleanly and of course they require additional and often damaging glues to be applied when they are not self-adhesive. Those film materials that we use are specially imported from Germany, quite expensive, but notably in a different league for quality. Precision Decals   We make use of a number of different transfer materials for our range of decal printing: Clear film backed, with various thicknesses of a clear varnish carrier, Filmless no carrier, with metallic or mirror-chrome nameplate decals, White film backed, a white painted varnish carrier, & White that can go clear film backed. The last of those is a UK brand called "JetCal", a self-sealing inkjet film - waterproof when printed. That material has been innovatively used for our D1-* and D2-* packs, as an ultra-thin film which can hang freely. "JetCal" is generally opaque with unprinted areas showing as white. If desired, water-based acrylic varnish may be safely applied. However, by applying a polyurethane solvent-based ("poly") varnish the underlying white can be made transparent, which will give the best match to surrounding colours - this is not always ideal as it might affect the colour effect of the printing. Note Howes Railmatch varnishes are "poly" types, as are those by Humbrol enamel paints. Tamiya branded acrylic varnish will preserve the white. Most of our decal media is hand made in the USA by Tango Papa Decals, generally recognised as having the thinnest and best carrier film. There are of course many other types of decal media, including ones that require special spray coatings and rub-on multiple layer assemblies - we have tested and rejected other types. Generally, to apply our decal products, cut around an image and simply soak in cold water for just long enough to begin to separate the decals from the backing sheet - not so long that the decal floats clear of the backing, as the glue layer will dissolve away - usually less than a minute. You can add a little polyvinylacetate ("PVA glue" or "wood glue") to the water when soaking our decals to help them stick. Slide carefully from the backing in to place on your model. Wipe away excess water with a damp sponge or tissue and allow 1 hour to dry. You do not have to use varnishes and get painting with decals, but it is recommended. Although warm water and a sponge may be all it takes to remove decals if ever later required, obviously where they have been varnished over that is another matter. An undercoat of gloss varnish is ideal, because decals always stick best to glossy surfaces. Clear film decals may develop "silvering" if the underlying surface is matte or not smooth - a problem caused by tiny air bubbles under the carrier film. As well as inkjets, we use "ALPS" type printers with wax resin based ribbon inks. The "ALPS" 5000-series, now no longer on general sale, are unique in being able to print metallic, mirror finish foil colours, and white ink which is important when working with clear carrier media. Our "filmless" decals are essentially pre-cut, created only from "ALPS" ink layers, and much more fragile than normal carrier borne decals. They require a little longer soaking to separate from the media, and you must very carefully slide from the backing paper directly on to the model with the minimum of moving around. The end result is something which has no visible carrier and looks like something printed on in normal factory model production. The technique is only suitable where an image is an enclosed shape, like a rectangular name plate. All "ALPS" type decals are prone to scratching, because of the separate layers of wax ink, and it is recommended that they be sealed over with some sort of protective finish. Any type of top coat varnish should be OK if applied thinly and carefully. Ideally use an airbrush for varnishing, apply fine spray mists, building up in thin layers, allowing each layer to dry. Never paint over or spray a thick coat of varnish, as decals will likely curl up and lift as varnish often shrinks when it dries! Also avoid exposing the decals to excessive amounts of thinners as they can dissolve the ink. Our decal clear film is probably thinner and more delicate than that from other manufacturers you may have experience of using - it gives better results, where the carrier film is usually invisible, but it takes care to apply. We sell "Johnson's Klear" original formula in our Marketplace section, see K4-*, which can be used under and over most of our decals to achieve the best results. To "bed down" over surfaces with raised details, there are various decal softening and setting solutions on the market, for example "Microscale MicroSol" which works by partly dissolving the carrier layer when painted on after decal application - use with caution! Before final varnishing a sealing coat of "Johnson's Klear" is highly recommended. Alternatively use the "MicroScale MicroSet" product and take care to build up varnishes in fine layers to avoid shrinkage. There are other "decal fix" products but we haven't had any good feedback about them. We recommend you avoid Humbrol Decal Fix in particular as it is known to dry cloudy, as well as Humbrol varnishes with their agressive solvents and shrinkage problems. When painting or varnishing models, bear in mind that different types of paint have compatibility issues and must be applied in a specific order when mixing types: Cellulose - Can be covered by all other paints. Cannot over paint any other paints. Typically used for your primary body colour. Best served warm. Acrylic - Can only be covered over by enamel. Do not apply on top of enamel as it will crackle the enamel. Can be thinned with water. Enamel - Can only be covered by enamel. Typically used for detail paint and lining. Use solvent thinners like white spirit. So for example, acrylic primer will be crackled by cellulose spray. For a primer to cellulose paint, ask for "UPOL Acid Etch No.8" at a local car body paint supplier - it works on plastic too and will accept top coats of cellulose. Custom Orders   We undertake custom orders and offer a decal printing service as well, particularly handy for graphic designers that have no access to printers capable of white on clear printing. Please see the Custom section from the Full Range Of Precision Decals, where there are lots of details and examples of how to prepare jobs ready for printing. Note that we do not handle large industrial scale production runs - sorry, we don't make labels for bean cans for example. However, it doesn't have to be anything to do with Model Railways - we have manufactured model car and plane details in various scales. Please Contact Us with details of your modelling requirements for a quotation, whether it's just a single set of engine numbers, or a whole depot full of decals. Jon Gavin of PeakDaleWorks likes to make every model unique in his depot, using our custom produced numbering decals.